Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life Book by William Finnegan
By William FinneganWINNER OF THE PULITZER PRIZE FOR BIOGRAPHY 2016 WINNER OF THE 2016 WILLIAM HILL SPORTS BOOK OF THE YEAR PRIZE Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment. Published By Orbit Books on 2016-05
Book details
- Paperback
- 512 pages
- English
- 1472151410
- 9781472151414
About William Finnegan
william finnegan is a staff writer at the new yorker. he has won several awards for his journalism and the 2016 pulitzer prize for biography or autobiograp Read More about William Finnegan
More Books By William Finnegan
People who bought this also bought
The Book of Why: The New Science of Cause and Effect book by Judea Pearl
How to Change the World: Tales of Marx and Marxism book by Eric Hobsbawm
Buckets of Money: How to Retire in Comfort and Safety by Raymond J. Lucia
The Sound of Healing: Unveiling the Phenomena of Wholetones book by Michael S. Tyrrell
Praying Our Days: A Guide and Companion book by Frank T. Griswold
Love Is Power, or Something Like That: Stories book by A. Igoni Barrett
From Deep State to Islamic State: The Arab Counter-Revolution and its Jihadi Legacy book by Jean-Pierre Filiu
The Bigger Deal: Work Your Way to a Life of Meaning book by Sunny Bindra
The Winning Investor's Guide to Making Money in Any Market book by Andrew Horowitz
Drop the Ball: Achieving More by Doing Less book by Tiffany Dufu
Moments with Our Master: 365 Daily Devotionals book by Todd Tomasella
Six Simple Rules: How to Manage Complexity without Getting Complicated book by Yves Morieux
A Gift of Love: Sermons From "Strength To Love" and Other Preachings (King Legacy) book by Martin Luther King Jr.
The Buddha and the Badass: Find Bliss and Conquer the World with a New Way of Work book by Vishen Lakhiani
American Renaissance: Art and Expression in the Age of Emerson and Whitman
The Song Dynasty (Life During the Great Civilizaitons) book by Scott Ingram
It Always Seems Impossible Until It's Done book by Kathryn Petras